LG washer error codes: most of them are the drain, the fill, or a load that will not balance.

The washer waited about eight minutes for the fill and the water level never rose. Nearly always the water is not reaching the valve.

1. Both taps behind the washer are fully open, hot and cold — a tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked or pinched behind the machine, and the little mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean (unscrew the hose, pull the screen with pliers, rinse).
3. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
4. In a cold garage or a porch: the hoses are not frozen — a frozen hose fills nothing and prints the same code.

Open the taps all the way, clean the inlet screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run a Rinse + Spin. If every tap is open, the screens are clean and the pressure is good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — that is a part.

The pump ran for about ten minutes and the water level did not drop. The water has nowhere to go, or the pump cannot move it.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe — pushed to the bottom, it siphons and cannot pump against itself.
2. Front-load: the pump filter behind the small door at the bottom left front. Put a towel and a pan down, pull the little drain tube and empty it first, then turn the cap out and pull the coin, the sock, the hair tie. Rinse it and screw it back in snug.
3. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
4. Suds. Non-HE detergent or too much of it makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Rinse + Spin with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the filter or the drain and run Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clean filter is the pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The water level sensor saw more water than the cycle asked for. Either the inlet valve is not closing or water is coming in from the drain.

1. Turn both taps off. If the water keeps rising with the taps closed, it is coming back up the drain hose — the hose is pushed too far into a standpipe that backs up.
2. If the water stops rising with the taps off, the inlet valve is not closing fully.

Fix the hose depth or the standpipe clog and the code clears. An inlet valve that will not shut is a part — leave the taps off until it is replaced so the floor stays dry.

The control cannot read the water level. The sensor's air hose has come off or the pressure sensor itself has failed.

1. Reset the washer (unplug one minute) and run a Rinse + Spin. A sensor fault that clears and stays gone was a power blip.

If it comes back, this is a part inside the control area — a technician reseats the hose or replaces the pressure sensor. Not a home repair.

The sensor in the base of a front-load found water under the tub. The washer reports this before the water reaches the floor.

1. Turn off both taps and pull the washer out. Look at the drain hose connection at the back of the machine, then at each fill hose end.
2. The pump filter cap at the bottom front — was it screwed back in straight after the last cleaning, and is the little drain tube's plug back in?
3. The detergent drawer: a drawer packed with softener residue overflows down the front and into the base.
4. Was the washer overfilled with suds? Foam pushed out the top of the tub lands in the base and trips the same sensor.

Tighten or reseat whatever was loose, dry the base (tip the machine back onto a towel with a helper), and run a Rinse + Spin. If the base fills again with every hose tight and the filter cap straight, the leak is inside — a tub seal, a hose off the pump, the door boot. That is a service call.

The washer found the water in the hoses, the pump or the tub frozen. Not a fault with the machine — a washer in an unheated garage or porch below freezing.

1. Feel the fill hoses and the drain hose — stiff and cold is frozen.
2. Front-load: open the pump filter door; ice in the filter well means the pump is frozen too.

Warm the room above freezing and wait a few hours, then run a Rinse + Spin with warm water. Do not pour hot water on the hoses or the pump. Through the winter, keep the space heated or drain the hoses and the pump after the last load.

The motor did not turn when the control drove it, or its position sensor reported nothing. On a top-load a load so heavy the drum could not move prints the same code.

1. Take half the load out and try again — a stalled drum on a packed top-load is the usual cause.
2. A new front-load: the shipping bolts are out of the back.
3. Unplug the washer for five full minutes, plug it in and run an empty Spin. If the drum turns freely by hand but the motor never runs, it is the motor, its sensor or the board.

An LE that shows with a normal load after a reset is the motor's hall sensor, the motor or the control board — a service call, not a home repair.

The motor drew more current than the control allows. A jammed drum, or a motor or board on its way out.

1. Take the load out and turn the drum by hand — it should spin freely with no scrape. A coin, a bra wire or a sock between the drum and the tub stalls it.
2. Unplug for five minutes and run an empty Spin.

A free drum that still prints CE on an empty Spin is the motor or the drive board — a service call.

On a top-load, the clutch that switches the drum between wash and spin did not move to the position the control asked for.

1. Take the load out — a packed or lopsided load can hold the clutch from shifting.
2. Unplug for one minute and run an empty Spin.

An E6 that comes back on an empty washer is the clutch or the motor assembly under the tub — a service call.

The water temperature sensor is reading open or shorted, or the heater is not raising the temperature. The number names which sensor on a model with more than one.

1. Reset the washer (unplug one minute) and run a cold Rinse + Spin. If cold cycles run clean and only warm or hot cycles print the code, the heater or its sensor is the fault.

A temperature code that returns is the sensor, the heater or its wiring — a part, replaced inside the tub. Service call; cold cycles still run meanwhile.

The sensor that reads the drum's shake is not answering, or it reported a shake the control does not believe.

1. The washer is level and the shipping bolts are out.
2. Reset (unplug one minute) and run an empty Spin.

A vibration-sensor code that returns on a level, empty washer is the sensor or its connector — a service call.

Not a fault. The power went out while the washer was running; the cycle stopped where it was.

1. Press Start/Pause — most models pick the cycle back up. If not, select a Rinse + Spin to finish the load.

Nothing to fix. If PF shows with no outage, the plug is loose in the outlet or the outlet is failing.