LG dishwasher error codes: water in, water out, and the float in the base.

The dishwasher waited for the fill and the water never reached the level it needs.

1. The supply valve under the sink (the small valve on the hot line to the dishwasher) is fully open.
2. The hot water at the kitchen faucet runs with normal pressure. A house filter or a well pump that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
3. The supply line is not kinked where the dishwasher was pushed into its opening.
4. The inlet screen where the supply meets the dishwasher's valve is clean — that is an installer's job to open.

Open the valve, straighten the line, and the code clears on the next fill. A full-pressure supply that still prints IE is the dishwasher's inlet valve — a part, a technician's job.

The drain pump ran and the water in the tub did not go down.

1. The filter at the bottom of the tub: twist the round filter out and lift the flat screen, rinse the glass, the bone, the label glue.
2. The drain hose under the sink has a high loop — up to the underside of the counter and back down — before it joins the drain or the disposal. Without the loop the sink water runs back in.
3. A disposal fitted in the last month: the knockout plug inside its dishwasher inlet was punched out. A plug left in prints OE on the first cycle.
4. The kitchen sink drains freely; a sink that backs up backs the dishwasher up with it.

Clean the filter, fix the loop, punch the knockout, and run a Rinse. A clean filter and an open hose that still print OE is the drain pump — a part, a technician's job.

The float in the base of the tub rose past its limit — more water came in than the cycle asked for.

1. Turn the supply valve under the sink off. If the water keeps rising with the valve closed, it is coming back from the drain — the high loop is missing or the disposal is blocked.
2. If the water stops with the valve off, the inlet valve is not closing fully.

Fix the drain loop or the clog and the code clears. An inlet valve that will not shut is a part — leave the supply valve off until it is replaced so the floor stays dry.

The float in the base of the dishwasher found water under the tub. The machine stops and runs the drain pump so the water does not reach the floor.

1. The dishwasher is level — a machine tilted forward lets water out the door seal onto the floor of the base.
2. The door gasket is clean, not torn, and the lower door seal is not loose.
3. A spray arm is not cracked or loose; a cracked arm throws water at the door seal.
4. Was the wrong soap used? Dish soap for the sink makes foam that pushes out the door and into the base.

Level the machine, fix the gasket, clear the suds (a Rinse with a tablespoon of vegetable oil kills the foam), dry the base and reset. A base that fills again is a hose, a pump seal or the sump inside — a service call.

The dishwasher paused on foam — the wrong soap, too much of it, or a rinse-aid dispenser leaking.

1. The soap is dishwasher detergent (a pod, a powder or a gel marked for dishwashers), never dish soap for the sink.
2. The rinse-aid cap is seated and not cracked.

Let it finish; it adds rinses by itself. Clear the leftover foam with an empty Rinse and a tablespoon of vegetable oil in the bottom of the tub.