LG refrigerator error codes: a fan, a sensor, or a door that has been open too long.

The fan behind the freezer's back wall, which pushes cold air over the evaporator, did not report its speed. Frozen solid, blocked, or failed.

1. Listen at the freezer with the door closed — a working fan hums; a fan grinding or clicking against ice is the usual cause, and silence is a fan that is not turning.
2. Nothing is packed against the back wall of the freezer where the air comes out.
3. Unplug the refrigerator for two minutes and plug it in. If the fan starts, it was ice; if the code returns within the day, the ice came back because the defrost is not keeping up.

A fan iced over: empty the freezer, leave the door open and the refrigerator unplugged for 24 hours to thaw, then restart. A fan that still does not turn, or ices over again within the week, is the fan motor or the defrost system — a service call.

The fan that moves cold air through the fresh-food section did not report its speed.

1. Listen on the fresh-food side with the door closed for the fan; nothing is pushed against the vent panel at the back.
2. Unplug for two minutes and restart; a fan that starts was iced.

Ice on the fan: thaw the refrigerator 24 hours with the doors open and restart. A fan that will not turn after a thaw is the fan motor — a service call.

The fan at the bottom back of the refrigerator, which cools the compressor and the condenser, did not report its speed.

1. Pull the refrigerator out and look at the fan at the bottom back — a plastic bag, a cord or a dust mat stops it; a bent blade rubs.
2. The grille and the coils are clean (a vacuum brush does it).
3. Unplug two minutes and restart.

Clear what stopped the fan and the code clears. A free, clean fan that will not turn is the condenser fan motor — a service call. Keep the refrigerator pulled a few inches from the wall meanwhile so the compressor can shed heat.

The small fan that feeds cold air to the in-door ice compartment did not report its speed. The display's 1 reads as an I, so Er 1F is the same code.

1. The ice compartment in the door: ice packed against the back of it, or a bucket not seated all the way, blocks the fan.
2. Pull the ice bucket, empty it, and look for ice built up on the compartment's back wall.
3. Unplug two minutes and restart.

Thaw the ice compartment (bucket out, the door-in-door open a few hours), reseat the bucket and restart. A fan that still will not turn is the ice compartment fan motor — a service call. The refrigerator keeps cooling meanwhile.

The defrost heater ran its full time and the evaporator did not warm up to the point the sensor expected. The heater, its fuse or the sensor.

1. Look at the back wall of the freezer: a sheet of frost over it means the defrost has not been working for days.
2. Unplug two minutes and restart; the control will run a defrost on its own.

A dH that returns is the defrost heater, the thermal fuse beside it, or the defrost sensor — all behind the freezer's back panel, a technician's job. Thaw the frost in the meantime so the fan keeps turning.

The sensor clipped to the evaporator that tells the control when the defrost is done is reading open or shorted.

1. Unplug two minutes and restart. A sensor code that clears and stays gone was a one-off.

A dS that comes back is the defrost sensor behind the freezer's back panel — a part, a technician's job.

The display board in the door and the main control at the back lost communication with each other.

1. Unplug the refrigerator for five full minutes, plug it in and watch the display.

A CO that comes back is the harness through the door hinge or one of the two boards — a service call. The refrigerator usually keeps cooling meanwhile.

The control switched the compressor on and it did not start — the start relay on the compressor or the compressor itself.

1. Listen at the bottom back: a click every few minutes with no hum after it is a compressor that is not starting.
2. Unplug five minutes and restart.

A 22 that comes back is the compressor's start relay or the compressor — a sealed-system technician's job, and on a machine under warranty a warranty service call. Move the food; the box will warm.

A door has been held open, or did not close all the way, for longer than the control allows — usually something inside is in the way.

1. Close every door and drawer and listen for the latch. A drawer not pushed home, a jar on the top shelf against the door bin, or a bag of ice in the freezer drawer holds a door open a half inch.
2. The gasket is clean and seals all the way round — a dollar bill closed in the door should pull out with a drag.
3. The refrigerator is level or tilted slightly back so the doors swing shut on their own.

Clear what is in the way, close the doors, and the code clears. A door that closes fully and still prints 67 is a door switch — a part.

Not a fault. The lights work, the panel works, and nothing cools — the refrigerator is in the showroom mode it shipped in.

1. The display reads OFF (or OF F) where the temperatures should show.

With the doors closed, press and hold Refrigerator and Ice Plus (on some models Freezer and Ice Plus) together for five seconds until the display beeps and shows the temperatures again. Give it 24 hours to pull down.