Midea washer error codes: most of them are the fill, the drain, the lid, or the balance.

The washer waited more than 30 minutes for its fill, or the water level stopped changing for five minutes while it was filling. The water is not reaching the washer the way it should.

1. The lid is closed — a top-load will not fill with the lid up, and the control counts the wait as a fill fault.
2. Both taps behind the washer are fully open, hot and cold — a tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
3. The fill hoses are not kinked behind the machine, and the little mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean (unscrew the hose, pull the screen with pliers, rinse).
4. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
5. No water on the floor — a washer losing water out of a hose end never reaches its level.

Open the taps all the way, clean the inlet screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run a Rinse + Spin. If every tap is open, the screens are clean and the pressure is good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — that is a part.

The pump ran for more than ten minutes and the water level did not drop. The water has nowhere to go, or the pump is not moving it.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe — pushed to the bottom, it siphons and cannot pump against itself.
2. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
3. Suds. Non-HE detergent or too much of it makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Rinse + Spin with nothing added.
4. Pull the drain hose off the standpipe into a bucket and start a Spin: water that comes out means the pump works and the drain is the problem.

Clear the hose or the drain and run Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with the hose free is the drain pump — a part, reached from under the washer, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The control did not see the lid closed when it went to run, or the washer rocked so far during spin that the control stopped it. Midea prints the same code for both.

1. Close the lid with nothing on it. A basket or a bottle on the lid keeps the latch off the switch.
2. The latch area is clean — detergent residue on the strike plate stops the lid switch from seeing the lid.
3. The washer sits flat on all four feet. Rock it corner to corner; a foot off the floor is turned down until it stops rocking, then the lock nut is tightened.
4. Reset (unplug five minutes) and try a Rinse + Spin with a small load.

A latched lid and a level washer clear it. A lid that latches and still prints E3 every time the washer goes to spin has a lid switch or a lid lock that is not reporting — a part (the lock's own code is Fd below).

The washer went out of balance more than three times in spin and stopped trying. One heavy item, or a load packed to the top.

1. Open the lid and spread the load. One heavy item — a bath mat, a comforter, a pair of jeans alone — needs two or three towels beside it.
2. A packed drum cannot balance; take some out.
3. The washer sits flat on all four feet and does not rock corner to corner.
4. Run a Spin with the rebalanced load.

Rebalance the load and run Spin. A level washer with a normal load that still throws E4 on every cycle has worn suspension rods — a part a technician replaces under the tub.

The switch that reads the washer rocking tripped and stayed tripped, or it failed. The washer is on an uneven floor, or the switch itself is the fault.

1. The washer is level on all four feet and sits on a solid floor — a soft or springy floor rocks the whole cabinet.
2. Nothing is pushed against the cabinet from behind or the side.
3. Reset (unplug five minutes) and run an empty Spin.

Level the washer and the code clears. A level washer that prints E5 again on an empty Spin has an impact switch that is not reporting — a part a technician replaces.

Not a fault. The Child Lock is on and the lid has been open for more than 20 seconds; the washer refuses to run until the lid is shut and the lock is cleared.

1. Close the lid.
2. Press Power to turn the washer off.
3. Switch the Child Lock off: press and hold the two buttons marked with the lock symbol for three seconds until the lock light goes out.

The panel answers again. If the lock light will not go out, unplug the washer for five minutes.

The washer tried three times to lock the door and could not. Something is holding the door off its latch, or the lock is not seating.

1. Push the door shut until it clicks. A towel caught in the gasket, or a sleeve over the latch, keeps the hook off the lock.
2. Look at the hook on the door and the slot in the cabinet — they line up, and nothing is bent.
3. The latch area is clean — detergent residue on the hook stops the lock from engaging.
4. Unplug for five minutes and try again.

A door that latches and still shows the code after a reset has a door lock that is not reporting — a part behind the front panel, reached by pulling the gasket back.

The water level did not change in three minutes of filling. Nine times in ten the water is not reaching the valve.

1. Both taps behind the washer are fully open, hot and cold.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked behind the machine, and the mesh screens at the washer end of each hose are clean.
3. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.

Open the taps all the way, clean the screens, straighten the hoses, reset and run a Rinse + Spin. If every tap is open and the pressure is good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — a part.

The pump ran for six minutes and the water level did not drop. The water has nowhere to go, or the pump filter is packed.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe.
2. The pump filter behind the little door at the bottom front. Put a towel and a pan down, turn the cap out, pull the coin, the sock, the hair tie. Rinse it and screw it back in snug.
3. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
4. Suds. Non-HE detergent or too much of it makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Rinse + Spin with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the filter or the drain and run Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clean filter is the drain pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The water sat above the overflow level for 16 seconds. The washer drained itself and then printed the code. Either the inlet valve is not closing, or water came in from the drain.

1. Turn both taps off and restart the washer. If the water keeps rising with the taps closed, it is coming back through the drain hose — pushed too far into a standpipe that backs up.
2. If the water stops rising with the taps off, the inlet valve is not closing fully.
3. Suds can trip it too — a foam-filled drum reads as a high level. Run a Rinse + Spin with nothing added.

Fix the hose depth or the standpipe clog, or the detergent dose, and the code clears. An inlet valve that will not shut is a part — leave the taps off until it is replaced so the floor stays dry.