Midea dishwasher error codes: most of them are the water — in, out, or on the floor of the tub.

The dishwasher waited for its fill and the water level never rose in time. Nine times in ten the water is not reaching the valve.

1. The supply valve under the sink (a small lever or knob on the hot line) is fully open — a valve a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The braided line to the dishwasher is not kinked where it bends up under the cabinet floor.
3. The hot tap at the sink runs with normal pressure; a house filter that has clogged, or a well pump between cycles, stalls the fill.
4. A new install: the valve under the sink was actually turned on after the hookup.

Open the valve all the way, straighten the line, reset and run a Quick cycle. If the valve is open and the pressure is good, the inlet valve on the dishwasher (behind the kick plate, where the line attaches) is not opening — a part.

The float in the base pan under the tub lifted and stayed up for two seconds — too much water in the tub, suds, or a leak into the base. The dishwasher pumps out and stops.

1. Turn the supply valve under the sink off. If the tub keeps filling with the supply off, the water is coming back through the drain hose — a disposal or a sink drain backing up, or a hose with no high loop.
2. Dish soap or too much detergent — a tub of suds lifts the float. Run a Quick cycle with nothing in it and a cup of white vinegar if the last load foamed.
3. Was the dishwasher just moved or tilted? Water left in the base from the last cycle lifts the float. Switch the breaker off, pull the dishwasher forward, tip it back on a towel with a helper and let the base dry.
4. The door gasket — a chip, a flat spot at the bottom corners, or a rack pulled through it. The gasket is the seal the tub relies on.
5. Under the sink: the supply and drain connections at the dishwasher's inlet are dry when you run a cycle and feel them.

Fix the high loop, the suds or the gasket, dry the base, reset and run a Quick cycle. A base that fills again with the gasket good and the connections dry has a leak inside — a hose off the pump, the sump seal — or an inlet valve that will not shut. Either is a service call.

The water in the tub did not reach the temperature the cycle asked for in the time allowed. The heater under the sump, its relay or the sensor that reads it is the fault; the dishwasher pumps out and stops.

1. The hot water at the kitchen sink is hot — run it until it is before starting the dishwasher, so the heater is not asked to warm a tub of cold water from scratch.
2. The filter in the floor of the tub is clean (twist the cylinder out, rinse it and the flat screen under it); water that cannot circulate never reaches the heater.
3. Reset (breaker off one minute) and run a Quick cycle; at the first pause, feel the water through the door — warm means the heater works and the first fill was simply cold.

Hot water at the tap and a clean filter clear a one-off. An E3 that returns with hot water going in is the heating element, its relay on the board or the temperature sensor — parts a technician replaces under the tub.