Error codes · Maytag · Ranges & ovens

Maytag range & oven error codes: the sensor, the latch and a key — a short list.

A Maytag range prints a short list of oven codes in Whirlpool's F-and-E shape — a stuck key, the oven temperature sensor, the self-clean latch — and the budget models still print the older two-digit F3, F5, F7. The states people call about (LOC, PF, dEMO, Sabbath) are modes, not faults. The cooktop side prints nothing; a burner that will not light is the ranges-and-ovens troubleshooting page.

Covers: 2015-and-newer Maytag electric (MER, MES), gas (MGR, MGS) and dual-fuel ranges with the electronic oven control.

Maytag · First

Before you clear it

Maytag prints F-and-E codes like Whirlpool (F9E1); top-load washers also print two-letter codes (Lid, dL, LF, Ld).

1

The display prints an F with an E (F3E0) on most 2015-and-newer models; the older control on a budget MER or MGR prints a bare F3, F5 or F7. The tables carry the older spelling beside the new one as an alias.

2

The reset: press Cancel (or Off), then switch the range's breaker off (an electric range) or unplug it (a gas range — the cord is behind the lower drawer) for one full minute, and set the clock. A code that returns the next time the oven heats is real.

3

A code that shows only when the oven is hot and clears when it cools still counts — write it down before you reset; the control keeps no history a customer can read.

4

The model and serial plate is on the frame behind the lower drawer (pull the drawer out and look at the front edge), or on the oven door frame at the left; a slide-in has it on the side of the drawer opening.

5

Gas smell at any time: turn the knobs off, light nothing, open a window and leave; call the gas company from outside, then us.

Section 1 of 2

The oven's codes

F2E0#1

Also printed as F7

Fix at home
Code

Stuck key

What it means

A key on the control panel has read as pressed for longer than the control allows.

Check first
  1. Press each key once and feel for one that does not spring back.
  2. Wipe the glass or the membrane dry — a spill or a cleaner on the panel holds a touch key down; let it dry fully.
  3. Breaker off one minute, on again, set the clock.
The fix

A key still stuck after cleaning is the touch panel (the user interface) — a part; on many of these it comes together with the control board.

F3E0#2

Also printed as F3

Service call
Code

Oven sensor open

What it means

The oven temperature sensor (the thin probe on the oven's back wall) reads open — the control sees no temperature at all.

Check first
  1. Breaker off one minute and try Bake. A one-time code after a power surge stays gone.
  2. Look at the probe on the back wall, up high: it is straight, not bent against the wall by a rack or a pan.
The fix

A sensor that still reads open is the sensor or its plug behind the oven's back panel — a part. The cooktop still works; the oven will not heat until it is changed.

Stop & call

F3E0 after a reset is a service call. Use the cooktop; the oven stays off until the sensor is replaced.

F3E1#3

Also printed as F4

Service call
Code

Oven sensor shorted

What it means

The same sensor reads shorted — a temperature far higher than the oven can be.

Check first
  1. Breaker off one minute and try Bake.
The fix

The same part as F3E0 — the sensor or its wiring; a service call.

Stop & call

F3E1 after a reset is a service call; the oven stays off until the sensor is replaced.

F3E2#4

Also printed as F2

Service call
Code

Oven over temperature

What it means

The control measured the oven hotter than the cycle allows — the heat kept coming after the set temperature.

Check first
  1. Press Cancel. If the oven keeps heating with everything off, switch the breaker off and leave it off.
  2. Breaker off one minute; try Bake at 350°F and watch the first ten minutes with an oven thermometer on the rack.
The fix

An oven that runs away is a relay stuck on the control board, or a sensor reading low — either is a part. Do not use the oven until it is checked.

Stop & call

An oven that heats past its set point, or heats with the control off, stays on the breaker until a technician has seen it — never a wait-and-see.

F5E1#5

Also printed as F5

Check, then call
Code

Self-clean latch fault

What it means

The latch that locks the door for self-clean did not lock, or did not unlock, when the control drove it.

Check first
  1. The door is fully closed and nothing is in its way — a rack pulled out, a towel over the handle.
  2. Let the oven cool fully; the latch will not release while the oven is still hot after a clean.
  3. Breaker off one minute, then start a clean cycle for a moment and cancel it; listen for the latch motor.
The fix

A latch that never moves is the latch motor or its switch — a part. The oven bakes normally meanwhile on most models; self-clean waits for the part.

Stop & call

F5E1 after a reset is a service call — self-clean stays off until the latch is changed; a door locked shut after a clean comes free once the oven cools.

F1#6
Service call
Code

Control board fault

What it means

On the older two-digit control, the board's own check failed.

Check first
  1. Breaker off one minute, on again, set the clock.
The fix

F1 that returns is the oven control board — a part; a service call.

Stop & call

F1 after a reset is a service call. Nothing at home clears a board; stop using the oven if the code comes with heat you did not ask for.

Section 2 of 2

Modes, not faults

LOC#7

Also printed as Loc · Lock

Fix at home
Code

Control lock on

What it means

Not a fault. The oven controls are locked so a child cannot start it.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the key marked Control Lock (often Start, or the lock symbol) for three seconds until LOC leaves the display.
The fix

The oven answers again.

PF#8
Fix at home
Code

Power failure

What it means

Not a fault. The power dropped and the clock lost its time.

Check first
  1. Press Cancel and set the clock; on most models the oven will not start until the clock is set.
The fix

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage in the house is a loose cord or a breaker that is tripping — an electric range's 240V cord and outlet are a licensed electrician's to look at.

dEMO#9

Also printed as Demo · SHOWROOM

Fix at home
Code

Demo mode

What it means

Not a fault. The display and the controls work for a sales floor but no element or burner heats. A range from a floor display or an outlet load sometimes arrives this way.

Check first
  1. The display shows dEMO, or every setting takes and nothing heats.
  2. Set the clock first, then press and hold the key pair the manual names (on many, Cancel with the clock or the Start key, for about five seconds) until dEMO leaves.
The fix

The oven heats again. If the manual's pair does nothing, a technician exits it from the control's service mode.

Sab#10

Also printed as Sabbath · SAb

Fix at home
Code

Sabbath mode

What it means

Not a fault. The oven holds a bake temperature with the lights, the tones and the display off for the Sabbath; the timer and self-clean do not work in it.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the key the manual names (on many, the clock or the Start key for about five seconds) until the display comes back.
The fix

Normal control returns; on most models the mode also ends by itself after about 72 hours.

HOT#11

Also printed as Hot Surface · HE

Fix at home
Code

Hot surface light

What it means

Not a fault. On a glass-top electric range the light stays on while an element's glass is still hot enough to burn — after the knob is off, too.

Check first
  1. Wait; the light goes out as the glass cools, five to twenty minutes after the element is off.
The fix

Nothing to fix. A hot-surface light that stays on with the glass cold is the element's limiter switch — a part.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Maytag's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.