Maytag dryer error codes: almost always the vent, the cord or the power.

The dryer measured too little air moving through the drum for the heat it was making, so it cut the heat back. Nine times in ten the vent run is the cause, not the dryer. A model with no display lights Check Vent for the same thing.

1. The lint screen is clean, and water poured on it runs straight through — a screen glazed by dryer sheets holds air back even when it looks clean.
2. Pull the dryer out and look at the hose to the wall: no kinks, not crushed flat behind the machine, metal (foil or rigid) and never white plastic.
3. Take the hose off the back of the dryer and run a Timed Dry on high for a minute. Strong warm air at the dryer's outlet means the dryer is fine and the duct in the wall is the problem.
4. Outside, the hood flap lifts when the dryer runs. A flap stuck with lint, a bird's nest or a screen over the hood stops the air.
5. A duct run over about 35 feet, or with more than two elbows, is too long for the dryer — each 90° elbow counts as five feet.

Clean the duct end to end (a drill-driven brush kit reaches most runs), replace a crushed or plastic hose with rigid or semi-rigid metal, and clear the hood; the code clears once the air moves. A dryer that prints AF with the hose off its back and a clean screen has a blocked blower housing or a stuck airflow sensor inside — a service call.

An electric dryer runs its motor on one 120V leg and its heater across both. L2 means the control sees one leg low or missing — the drum turns, the heat never comes.

1. The dryer's breaker is a double (two handles tied together) and both halves are on — a half-tripped double breaker drops one leg and the dryer still tumbles.
2. Switch the breaker fully off, then on; a breaker that will not hold is tripping on a fault.
3. The cord is plugged all the way into the outlet, and the terminal block cover on the back of the dryer is on — a cord installed loose at the block drops a leg.
4. A gas dryer runs on 120V and never prints L2; one that does is misreading and is a service call.

Reset the breaker and seat the cord. If L2 comes back with the breaker on, the outlet, the cord or the terminal block needs a licensed electrician — 240V work is not a home job. An outlet that reads good on both legs and still prints L2 is the dryer's control.

The sensor that reads the air temperature leaving the drum reads open or shorted, so the control cannot run the heater safely.

1. Reset (breaker off one minute) and run a Timed Dry; a one-time reading after a power blip stays gone.

F3E1 that returns is the exhaust thermistor on the blower housing, or its wiring — a part; a service call.