GE washer error codes: few codes print — most of what shows is the fill, the drain or the lid.

The washer waited for the fill and the water level never rose in time. Nearly always the water is not reaching the valve the way it should.

1. Both taps behind the washer are fully open, hot and cold — a tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked or crushed behind the machine, and the little mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean (turn the hose off and unscrew it, pull the screen with pliers, rinse).
3. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
4. The hoses are on the right inlets — hot to hot, cold to cold. Swapped hoses make the washer wait on water at a temperature it never gets.

Open the taps all the way, clean the inlet screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run a Rinse + Spin. If every tap is open, the screens are clean and the pressure is good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — that is a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The pump ran and the water level did not drop in time. The hose, the standpipe or the pump filter is the usual cause.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe — pushed to the bottom, it siphons and cannot pump against itself.
2. The pump filter, on a model that has one behind the small door at the bottom front (the newer UltraFresh front-loads do): put a towel and a pan down, turn the cap out, pull the coin, the sock, the hair tie, rinse it and screw it back in snug.
3. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
4. Suds. Too much detergent, or detergent that is not HE, makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Rinse + Spin with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the filter or the drain and run Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clear hose is the drain pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

Not a fault. The panel is locked so a child cannot change the cycle; the display reads LOC or shows the lock light.

1. Press and hold the pad marked Lock Controls for three seconds (the panel prints which pad; on most it is the one with the padlock).

The lock turns off and the panel answers again.

Not a fault. The washer is weighing the load before it fills — the lid is locked, the basket may turn a few times, and nothing happens for a minute or two.

1. Wait. The fill starts by itself once the sensing is done; on a top-load the whole pause is under three minutes.

Nothing to fix. A washer that sits in Sensing for more than five minutes with the taps open and never fills is reading as the fill fault above.

The control is getting no power — the outlet, the breaker or the cord — or the control itself has failed.

1. The breaker for the laundry outlet is on; turn it fully off and back on, since a tripped breaker can sit in the middle.
2. A lamp plugged into the washer's outlet lights — many laundry rooms sit on a GFCI outlet (the one with the two buttons), which trips and takes the washer with it; press Reset on it.
3. The plug is pushed all the way into the outlet and the cord is not pinched behind the machine.

Fix the supply and the panel comes back. A washer on a live outlet with no lights has a failed control or an open line filter inside the cabinet — a service call, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.