Samsung washer error codes: most of them are water in, water out, or the door.

The washer waited for the fill and the water level never rose. Nine times in ten the water is not reaching the valve.

1. Both taps behind the washer are fully open, hot and cold — a tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked behind the machine, and the little mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean (unscrew the hose, pull the screen with pliers, rinse).
3. A faucet at the nearest sink runs with normal pressure; a well pump or a house filter that has dropped the pressure stalls the fill.
4. The hoses are on the right inlets — hot to hot, cold to cold. Swapped hoses make the washer wait on a fill that never comes at the temperature it asked for.

Open the taps all the way, clean the inlet screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run a Rinse + Spin. If every tap is open, the screens are clean and the pressure is good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — that is a part.

The washer measured water over about 120°F coming in on a cold fill. The hoses are swapped, or the cold supply is fed from the hot side.

1. Follow each hose from the washer back to the wall — the one on the inlet marked C (blue) must come from the cold tap.
2. If the washer sits next to the water heater, the cold line may be picking up heat; run the cold tap at the sink and feel it.

Swap the hoses to the right inlets. The code clears on the next fill.

The pump ran and the water level did not drop in time. The display's 5 is read as an S by most people, so 5C and SE are the same code.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it sits only 4–6 inches into the standpipe — pushed to the bottom, it siphons and cannot pump against itself.
2. Front-load: the pump filter behind the little door at the bottom front. Put a towel and a pan down, turn the cap out, pull the coin, the sock, the hair tie. Rinse it and screw it back in snug.
3. The standpipe itself drains — pour a bucket of water down it; if it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
4. Suds. Non-HE detergent or too much of it makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Rinse + Spin with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the filter or the drain and run Spin. A pump that hums and moves nothing with a clean filter is the pump — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The water level sensor saw more water than the cycle asked for. Either the inlet valve is not closing or the water went in from somewhere else.

1. Turn both taps off. If the water keeps rising with the taps closed, the water is coming from the drain — the drain hose is pushed too far into a standpipe that backs up.
2. If the water stops rising with the taps off, the inlet valve is not closing fully.

Fix the hose depth or the standpipe clog and the code clears. An inlet valve that will not shut is a part — leave the taps off until it is replaced so the floor stays dry.

The sensor in the base of the washer found water under the tub. A front-load reports this before the water reaches the floor.

1. Turn off both taps and pull the washer out. Look at the drain hose connection at the back of the machine, then at each fill hose end.
2. Front-load: the pump filter cap at the bottom front — was it screwed back in straight after the last cleaning?
3. The detergent drawer: a drawer packed with softener residue overflows down the front and into the base.
4. Was the washer overfilled with suds? Foam pushed out the top of the tub lands in the base and trips the same sensor.

Tighten or reseat whatever was loose, dry the base (tip the machine back onto a towel with a helper), and run a Rinse + Spin. If the base fills again with every hose tight and the filter cap straight, the leak is inside — a tub seal, a hose off the pump, the door boot. That is a service call.

The control cannot read the water level. The sensor hose has come off or the pressure sensor itself has failed.

1. Reset the washer (unplug one minute) and run a Rinse + Spin. A sensor fault that clears and stays gone was a power blip.

If it comes back, this is a part inside the control area — a technician reseats or replaces the pressure sensor. Not a home repair.

The water heater in the tub is not heating, or the control measured a temperature it does not believe (over 160°F).

1. Reset the washer (unplug one minute) and run a Rinse + Spin on cold.
2. If the code shows only on warm or hot cycles and cold cycles run clean, the heater or its sensor is the fault.

A heater that does not heat, or a sensor that reads hot on a cold fill, is a part — a technician replaces it inside the tub. Cold cycles still run meanwhile.

The water temperature sensor is reading open or shorted. The number after it names which sensor on a model with more than one.

1. Reset the washer (unplug one minute) and run a cold Rinse + Spin.

A temperature code that returns is a sensor or its wiring — a part, replaced inside the tub. Service call.

The motor did not turn when the control drove it, or its speed sensor reported nothing. On a top-load a load so heavy the drum could not move prints the same code.

1. Take half the load out and try again — a stalled drum on a packed top-load is the usual cause.
2. A new front-load: the shipping bolts are out of the back.
3. Reset (unplug one minute) and run an empty Spin. If the drum turns freely by hand but the motor never runs, it is the motor or its board.

A 3C that shows with a normal load after a reset is the motor, its hall sensor or the drive board — a service call, not a home repair.

The sensor that reads the drum's shake is not answering, or it reported a shake the control does not believe.

1. The washer is level and the shipping bolts are out.
2. Reset (unplug one minute) and run an empty Spin.

A vibration-sensor code that returns on a level, empty washer is the sensor or its connector — a service call.

The power coming in is too low or too high for the control to run the motor safely.

1. The washer is plugged straight into the wall — never an extension cord or a power strip.
2. Another appliance on the same circuit (a space heater, a window unit) is off while the washer runs.
3. A lamp in the same outlet does not dim when the washer starts. If it does, the house wiring or the outlet is the problem, not the washer.

Fix the supply (a dedicated 120V outlet, no cord) and the code clears. A washer on a good outlet that still prints 9C has a fault on its own board — a service call.

Not a fault. The power went out while the washer was running; the cycle stopped where it was.

1. Press Start/Pause — most models pick the cycle back up. If not, select a Rinse + Spin to finish the load.

Nothing to fix. If PF shows with no outage, the plug is loose in the outlet or the outlet is failing.

The main control and the panel (or the motor board) lost communication with each other.

1. Unplug the washer for five full minutes, plug it in and try a cycle.

An AC code that comes back is a board or the harness between them — a service call.

The panel sees a key held down for more than half a minute.

1. Press each button once; feel for one that does not spring back.
2. Wipe the panel — detergent or softener on a membrane panel holds a key down.
3. Unplug for one minute.

A key that stays stuck after cleaning is the panel assembly — a part. The washer still starts from the app on a Wi-Fi model meanwhile.

Not a fault. The washer is running its three-minute calibration after being moved or reset.

1. Let it finish with the drum empty — the display returns to the cycle screen by itself.

If it was started by accident, press Power off and on. Run it on purpose once after any move.