Error codes · Hisense · Refrigerators

Hisense refrigerator error codes: most of them are a sensor, the freezer fan, or the ice maker.

A Hisense refrigerator prints its codes in the temperature display, and it prints them in the half of the display that belongs to the section with the fault — a fridge sensor in the fridge numbers, a freezer fan in the freezer numbers. Most name a sensor; the ones a person can do something about are the fan, the ice maker and the door. Find the code below, read the strip above the table before you reset, and move the food to a cooler if the box warms.

Covers: 2019-and-newer Hisense French door (HRF266N6, HRF254N6, HRF209N6, HRF189N6), quad-door (HRQ215N6), bottom-freezer (HRB208N6) and top-freezer (HRT180N6) refrigerators.

Hisense · First

Before you clear it

Hisense prints E codes on the refrigerator panel (E1, E2) and F codes on a range.

1

The code replaces the temperature. A code in the fridge display (E0, E1, E8, Ec, Er) is on the fresh-food side; a code in the freezer display (E3, E4, E9, Eb, F1) is on the freezer side; dr can show on either.

2

Hisense shows a stored code for the first four minutes after the refrigerator is plugged in. That is the self-check: unplug it (or switch its breaker off) for five full minutes, plug it back in, and watch the display for four minutes. A panel that shows only the temperatures has no fault stored.

3

Two panel states look like faults and are not: the demo (cooling-off) mode, which prints 0F in both displays with the lights on and no cooling, and the door alarm, which beeps three times every 30 seconds once a door has stood open about a minute. Both are in the table.

4

The filter light blinks after about 300 gallons on a timer; after a new filter, press and hold Ice On/Off for three seconds to clear it.

5

The model and serial plate is inside the fresh-food compartment on the left wall. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 3

The sensors

A sensor code is a part behind a panel — a technician's job. The one thing to check at home is whether the box is holding temperature, and for how long.

E1#1
Service call
Code

Fridge temperature sensor

What it means

The sensor that reads the fresh-food section is open or shorted. The control runs the fridge on a guess until it is replaced; the code shows in the fridge display.

Check first
  1. The five-minute unplug and the four-minute watch — a sensor code that does not come back was a power blip.
  2. A thermometer in a glass of water on the middle shelf reads 37–40°F after a day; warmer, and the control is guessing wrong.
The fix

An E1 that returns is the fridge sensor or its connector behind the back panel of the fresh-food section — a part a technician replaces. The refrigerator runs meanwhile; keep an eye on the thermometer.

Stop & call

E1 after a reset is a service call. Note the model and serial from the left wall and how the fridge is holding temperature.

E3#2
Service call
Code

Freezer temperature sensor

What it means

The sensor that reads the freezer is open or shorted; the code shows in the freezer display. The control runs the freezer on a guess until it is replaced.

Check first
  1. The five-minute unplug and the four-minute watch.
  2. A thermometer between two frozen packages reads 0°F after a day; ice cream going soft is the freezer running warm on the guess.
The fix

An E3 that returns is the freezer sensor or its connector behind the freezer's back panel — a technician's job. Move the frozen food to a cooler if the freezer softens before the visit.

Stop & call

E3 after a reset is a service call. On a machine under warranty it is a warranty call.

E4#3
Service call
Code

Freezer defrost sensor

What it means

The sensor on the freezer coil that tells the control the defrost has finished is open or shorted. Without it the defrost cannot run right and the coil ices over; the code shows in the freezer display.

Check first
  1. The five-minute unplug and the four-minute watch.
  2. Frost thick on the freezer's back panel, a hum and a scrape from behind it, and a freezer warming slowly over a week fit this code.
The fix

An E4 that returns is the defrost sensor behind the freezer's back panel — a technician's job. A 24-hour thaw with everything out (unplugged, doors open, towels down) holds it over; it is not the fix.

Stop & call

E4 after a reset is a service call. Thaw it, dry it, and run it until the technician comes.

E0#4
Service call
Code

Room temperature sensor

What it means

The sensor that reads the air around the refrigerator is open or shorted; the code shows in the fridge display. The control uses it to pace the compressor; the box keeps cooling without it.

Check first
  1. The five-minute unplug and the four-minute watch. The refrigerator is in a room between 50°F and 100°F — a garage in January or a porch in July is outside what the control expects.
The fix

An E0 that returns is the ambient sensor near the main board at the bottom back — a part, a technician's. The food is safe meanwhile.

Stop & call

E0 after a reset is a service call, and not an urgent one — the cooling is not affected.

E8#5
Service call
Code

Humidity sensor

What it means

The sensor that reads the moisture in the fresh-food section is open or shorted; the code shows in the fridge display. The crisper control runs on a guess until it is replaced.

Check first
  1. The five-minute unplug and the four-minute watch.
The fix

An E8 that returns is the humidity sensor — a part a technician replaces. The temperatures are not affected.

Stop & call

E8 after a reset is a service call, and the food is safe meanwhile.

E9#6
Service call
Code

Ice maker sensor

What it means

The sensor that tells the ice maker its tray is frozen is open or shorted; the code shows in the freezer display. No ice is made until it is replaced.

Check first
  1. The five-minute unplug and the four-minute watch — the ice maker should turn and refill within 24 hours if the code was a blip.
The fix

An E9 that returns is the ice maker's sensor — on most models the whole ice maker assembly is the part. A technician's job; the cooling is not affected.

Stop & call

E9 after a reset is a service call. Only the ice stops; the refrigerator cools normally.

Section 2 of 3

The fan, the ice maker and the boards

F1#7
Check, then call
Code

Freezer fan fault

What it means

The fan behind the freezer's back panel is not turning at the speed the control asked for — ice on the blades, or the motor. The code shows in the freezer display.

Check first
  1. The freezer door seals all the way round; a bag of frozen peas behind a drawer holds the door off and lets in the moist air that becomes the ice.
  2. Frost on the freezer's back panel, or a buzz and a scrape from behind it, is the fan in ice.
  3. The freezer temperature is rising while the fridge holds — the freezer fan's own sign, since the fridge gets its cold air from that fan too on most models.
The fix

Unplug the refrigerator, open the doors, put towels down and let it thaw for 24 hours — everything out, the ice behind the panel must melt completely (a hair dryer on low speeds it; never an ice pick). Plug it back in. A fan that spins freely once thawed was the ice; one that stays silent is the fan motor. A freezer that ices over again within weeks has a defrost fault behind it (E4's parts) or a gasket that will not seal — service.

Stop & call

A freezer fan that stays silent after a full thaw, or ices again within weeks, is a service call. Move the frozen food to a cooler until it is seen; under warranty it is a warranty call.

Eb#8
Check, then call
Code

Ice maker fault

What it means

The ice maker did not finish a harvest in the time the control allowed — the tray did not turn, or the ice never froze. The code shows in the freezer display.

Check first
  1. The ice maker is on — Ice On/Off lit on the panel; a refrigerator installed this week needs 24 hours before the first ice.
  2. The water is on: the shut-off under the sink or behind the refrigerator is fully open, the line is not kinked, and the pressure is at least 30 psi at the house (a dispenser that trickles says it is not).
  3. The bucket is pushed fully in; ice jammed in the tray or under the auger — take the bucket out and look. Warm water on a cloth frees a stuck cube; never a knife.
  4. The freezer is near 0°F; a freezer running warm makes soft ice that sticks.
  5. The five-minute unplug, then listen within a day for the tray to turn and the valve to run water.
The fix

Clear the jam, fix the water and the temperature, and reset. An ice maker that still fails with the freezer cold and water at the valve is the ice maker assembly or the fill valve at the bottom back — parts, a technician's job.

Stop & call

An ice maker that fails with the freezer cold and the water on is a service call. Under warranty it is a warranty call; the refrigerator cools normally meanwhile.

Ec#9
Service call
Code

Boards not talking — sending

What it means

The main board at the bottom back could not send to the control panel; the code shows in the fridge display. A loose harness, or one of the boards. Er below is the same link read from the other end.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for five full minutes, plug it in and watch the panel light up.
  2. Was a door removed or the refrigerator moved recently? On a French door the harness runs through the top hinge of the left door — lift the hinge cover (one screw) with the refrigerator unplugged and look at the connector: pushed home with its latch clicked, no pins bent.
The fix

Seat the connector and the panel comes back. A connector seated and latched that still prints Ec is the harness or a board — a service call. The refrigerator usually keeps cooling at its last setting meanwhile.

Stop & call

Ec after a five-minute unplug with the hinge connector seated is a service call. Keep the doors shut and the food cold; the cooling generally carries on.

Er#10
Service call
Code

Boards not talking — receiving

What it means

The main board is not hearing the control panel; the code shows in the fridge display. The same harness and the same two boards as Ec, read from the other end.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for five full minutes, plug it in and watch the panel light up.
  2. The hinge connector under the top hinge cover of the left door (unplugged first): pushed home, latch clicked, no pins bent.
The fix

A seated connector clears it. An Er that stands with the connector seated is the harness or a board — a service call; the cooling generally carries on at its last setting.

Stop & call

Er after a five-minute unplug with the hinge connector seated is a service call. Keep the doors shut and the food cold.

Section 3 of 3

The doors and the panel

dr#11
Check, then call
Code

Door open, or the door switch

What it means

The control sees a door open when it should not — a door standing open, a drawer or a jar holding it off the seal, or a door switch that has stuck. It can show in either display.

Check first
  1. Shut each door and drawer and feel the gasket all the way round for a gap; move whatever holds it off.
  2. The refrigerator is tilted back a hair (0.4–0.6 in at the top) so the doors swing shut on their own — the front feet turn to set it.
  3. The light goes off when the door shuts: hold the door switch in with a finger and watch the light. A light that stays on is a switch that is not being pressed, or has failed.
  4. Unplug for five minutes and watch the four-minute self-check.
The fix

A door that seals clears it. A dr that stands with every door shut and the light going out is the door switch or its magnet in the door — a part a technician replaces.

Stop & call

dr with every door sealed after a reset is a service call on the door switch. The refrigerator cools meanwhile; the alarm is the nuisance.

0F 0F#12

Also printed as OF OF · 0F

Fix at home
Code

Demo (cooling-off) mode

What it means

Not a fault. The lights and the panel work but the compressor is switched off — the mode a store floor uses. The display reads 0F in both halves, or the temperature indicators scroll.

Check first
  1. The display reads 0F 0F (or the indicators keep moving) and the box is warm with the lights on.
The fix

Press and hold the two buttons the book names for the cooling-off mode — Ice On/Off and Energy Saving on most panels — for three seconds until the buzzer sounds three times and the temperatures come back. The compressor starts within a minute.

Filter#13
Fix at home
Code

Water filter reminder

What it means

Not a fault. The filter icon blinks after about 300 gallons on a timer, not on a measurement of the filter.

Check first
  1. Replace the filter (a quarter turn counterclockwise pulls the old one out; the book names the type), run 2.5 gallons through the dispenser, then press and hold Ice On/Off for three seconds.
The fix

The icon stops blinking. A dispenser that drips after a new filter has air in the line — keep flushing it.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Hisense's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.