Error codes · Frigidaire · Refrigerators

Frigidaire refrigerator error codes: most of them are a door left open, a power blip, or one fan.

Frigidaire, Frigidaire Gallery and Frigidaire Professional share one refrigerator control, so the codes read the same across the three badges. The display prints a two-letter pair in each temperature window — SY in one and the fault in the other, or OP and SH for a sensor — and most of the alarms people call about are states, not faults: a high-temp alarm after the door stood open, a power-failure light, Sabbath mode. Find the pair below; the sensor and fan codes are a technician's, the rest clear at home.

Covers: 2015-and-newer French-door (FFHB2750, FGHB2868, FRFS2823, FRSS2623, FPBS2777), side-by-side (FFSS2615, FGSS2635, FRSC2333) and top-freezer (FFTR1835, FGHT1835, FFHT2033) refrigerators, and the FPRU19F8 and FPFU19F8 columns.

Frigidaire · First

Before you clear it

Frigidaire prints E codes (E10, E21, E41) and F codes on ranges (F10, F30). The code history is read from the control's own diagnostic mode.

1

The code shows in the two temperature windows: SY on one side and CE, CF or EF on the other; OP or SH on one side names an open or shorted sensor, and which window it sits in says which section. H, HI, PF and Sb are states, not faults.

2

The reset: press Alarm Reset (or Clear Alerts) once for a state; for a code, unplug the refrigerator — or switch its breaker off — for 30 seconds and plug it back in. A fault code that comes straight back is real.

3

A door alarm sounds after a door has stood open 5 minutes; a high-temp alarm follows a door left open or an outage once the freezer passes 26°F or the fresh-food side passes 55°F. Both clear by themselves once the box is cold again.

4

The code history and the diagnostic are a technician's read on this control; there is no published owner mode.

5

The model and serial plate is on the inside wall of the fresh-food section, up high on the left or right, or on the ceiling just inside the door. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 2

States, not faults

H#1

Also printed as HI · H1

Fix at home
Code

High temperature alarm

What it means

Not a fault by itself. The freezer went above 26°F or the fresh-food section above 55°F for over an hour — a door left open, a long outage, or a box still pulling down after it was first plugged in.

Check first
  1. Both doors and the freezer drawer are shut and nothing inside is holding one open — a bag, a shelf pushed out, a bin not seated.
  2. The gaskets seal: close a dollar bill in the door and pull; it should drag all the way around.
  3. The box is cooling: a hand on the back wall of the freezer feels cold and the fan runs when the door switch is pressed.
  4. A refrigerator just installed or just moved needs 24 hours to reach temperature; the alarm clears on its own.
The fix

Press Alarm Reset to mute it; it stays lit until the section is back in range, then goes out by itself. A box that is cold at the back and still warm up front is airflow — pull the freezer out and let the air through. A box that never gets cold with the doors shut is a fault, not a state — see SY EF, or a sealed-system call.

PF#2
Fix at home
Code

Power failure

What it means

Not a fault. The power went out while the refrigerator was running; the light or the letters stay on so you know the food sat warm for a while.

Check first
  1. Press Alarm Reset (or Set) once the power is back. If the outage was long, the high-temp alarm shows too — it clears once the box is cold again.
The fix

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage is a loose plug or a breaker that is tripping — check the cord at the wall.

Sb#3

Also printed as SB · SB SB

Fix at home
Code

Sabbath mode

What it means

Not a fault. The display shows Sb and the lights, the dispenser and the tones are off; cooling continues and the high-temp alarm stays active.

Check first
  1. Press and hold the – (minus) key and the Temp °F/°C key together for 5 seconds; the display returns to the temperatures.
The fix

The refrigerator is back to normal. On a model with a different panel, the manual names the two keys, held 5 seconds.

77#4

Also printed as 77 77

Fix at home
Code

Demo mode

What it means

Not a fault. The display works, the lights work and nothing cools — the showroom mode that lets a store show the controls without running the compressor.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for 5 full minutes and plug it back in; demo mode drops and the compressor starts.
The fix

Give it 24 hours to reach temperature. If 77 77 comes back on its own, the control is being told to demo by a stuck key — a technician's look.

DI SP#5

Also printed as DISP

Fix at home
Code

Ice jammed in the chute

What it means

Not a fault of the machine. A cube has been stuck in the dispenser chute too long and the control is telling you to clear it.

Check first
  1. Open the freezer door (or the ice-bin door) and look up into the chute with a flashlight; push the stuck cube through from inside.
  2. Pull the ice bin out, let any fused ice melt in the sink, dry the bin and put it back the way it came out.
The fix

The alarm clears once the chute is empty. Ice that keeps fusing in the bin is a freezer door standing open a crack, or ice sitting unused for weeks — dump the bin now and then.

Section 2 of 2

Fault codes

These five are the maker's own list of codes that mean a service call — the checks are what to rule out before you make it.

SY EF#6

Also printed as 5Y EF · SY EF2

Service call
Code

Evaporator fan fault

What it means

The control drove the evaporator fan — the fan behind the freezer's back panel that moves cold air to both sections — and got no feedback. The freezer may still feel cold while the fresh-food side warms.

Check first
  1. With the freezer door open, press the door switch and listen for the fan behind the back panel; a fan that never runs or grinds is the fan.
  2. Frost on the back panel means the fan is iced in — the defrost system failed first.
  3. Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds, plug it in and wait 10 minutes for the fan to be called again.
The fix

A fan that will not run, or runs and the code returns, is the evaporator fan motor or its harness — a technician's part behind the freezer panel. A fan iced in is the defrost heater, the defrost thermostat or the control, the same call.

Stop & call

SY EF that comes back after a reset is a service call. Keep the doors shut and move frozen food to a cooler if the freezer is warming; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

SY CE#7
Service call
Code

Communication error

What it means

The display board and the main control board stopped talking to each other.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for 5 full minutes, plug it back in and give the display a minute to wake.
The fix

A code that returns is one of the two boards or the harness between them — a technician's part. The box often keeps cooling meanwhile; check the freezer by hand.

Stop & call

SY CE after a five-minute unplug is a service call. Note whether the refrigerator is still cooling; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

SY CF#8
Service call
Code

Communication failure

What it means

The main control reached for the display board, or a sensor, and got nothing back. It is the same family as SY CE, read from the other side.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for 5 full minutes and plug it back in.
The fix

SY CF that returns is a board or the harness — a technician's part. Nothing to reach at home.

Stop & call

SY CF after a reset is a service call. On a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

OP#9
Service call
Code

Sensor open

What it means

A temperature sensor reads open — the control sees no sensor at all. OP in the freezer window is the freezer sensor; OP in the fresh-food window is the fresh-food sensor.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds and plug it back in. A sensor code that stays gone was a blip in the reading.
The fix

OP that returns is the thermistor named by its window, or its wiring — a technician's part. Until it is replaced the control runs that section on a guess, so keep the doors shut.

Stop & call

OP after a reset is a service call. Say which window printed it; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

SH#10
Service call
Code

Sensor shorted

What it means

A temperature sensor reads shorted. SH in the freezer window is the freezer sensor; SH in the fresh-food window is the fresh-food sensor.

Check first
  1. Unplug the refrigerator for 30 seconds and plug it back in.
The fix

SH that returns is the thermistor named by its window — a technician's part. The section may run too cold or too warm until it is replaced.

Stop & call

SH after a reset is a service call. Say which window printed it; on a machine under warranty it is a warranty service call.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Frigidaire's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.