Electrolux washer error codes: a slow fill, a slow drain, or a door that did not report shut.

The inlet valve was open and the water level did not come up in the time the control allows. EF4 is the same story read off the pressure sensor — the washer asked for water and saw none arrive.

1. Both taps behind the washer are open all the way, hot and cold. A tap a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up on it.
2. The fill hoses are not kinked where the washer was pushed back, and the mesh screens where each hose meets the washer are clean — turn the tap off, unscrew the hose, lift the screen out with needle-nose pliers and rinse it.
3. The nearest sink runs with normal pressure. A well pump between cycles, or a whole-house filter that has clogged, starves the fill.
4. After an E11 the washer may lock its controls for about 6 minutes — wait it out before you start again.

Open the taps, clean the screens, straighten the hoses, then reset and run a Rinse & Spin. With every tap open, the screens clean and the pressure good, the inlet valve on the washer is not opening — that is a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call.

The drain pump ran and the water level did not fall in the time the control allows. Something is slowing the water on its way out, or the pump is not moving it.

1. The drain hose is not kinked or crushed behind the washer, and it reaches only 4–6 inches into the standpipe. A hose pushed to the bottom siphons and the pump fights itself.
2. The pump filter behind the small door at the bottom front: put a towel and a shallow pan down, turn the cap out slowly, and pull the coin, the sock, the bobby pin. Rinse it and screw it back in straight and snug.
3. The standpipe drains on its own — pour a bucket of water down it. If it backs up, the house drain is clogged, not the washer.
4. Suds. Too much detergent, or detergent that is not HE, makes a foam the pump cannot move; run a Rinse & Spin with nothing added.

Clear the hose, the filter or the drain and run a Spin. A pump that hums with a clean filter and moves nothing is the pump — a part. E23 or E24 on the same display is the pump's relay on the control board rather than the pump, also a technician's part; both are warranty calls on a machine under warranty.

The pump is trying to move water and the filter in front of it is packed. This code points at the filter door and nothing else.

1. Open the small door at the bottom front, put a towel and a pan under it, and turn the filter cap out a half turn at a time — the water in the sump comes out with it.
2. Pull everything out of the filter and reach into the pump mouth behind it with a finger: coins, hair ties, a sock, a mat of lint.
3. Screw the cap back in straight until it stops; a cap started crooked leaks on the next fill.

Clean the filter and run a Rinse & Spin. On a house with kids' pockets, make it a once-a-month habit. A clean filter that still prints EF1 is the pump itself — a part.

The washer saw more foam than it can rinse away and paused to let it fall. Too much detergent, or detergent that is not HE — the SmartBoost premix needs very little.

1. The detergent is HE (the hE mark on the bottle) and the dose is the cap's lowest line — about two tablespoons for a normal load on these washers.
2. The dispenser drawer is not caked with old detergent or softener; pull it out and rinse it under warm water.

Let the cycle finish; the washer adds rinses by itself. Then run an empty Quick cycle with nothing added to clear the leftover foam. Next load, half the dose.

The pressure sensor saw more water in the tub than any cycle asks for. Either the inlet valve is not closing, or water is coming back in from the drain.

1. Turn both taps off. If the water keeps rising with the taps closed, it is coming back from the standpipe — the drain hose sits too deep in a drain that backs up.
2. If the water stops rising with the taps off, the inlet valve is not shutting all the way.
3. A newly installed washer: the drain hose is hooked over the standpipe at the height the install sheet shows, not lying on the floor.

Fix the hose depth or the house drain and the code clears on the next cycle. An inlet valve that will not shut is a part — keep the taps off until it is replaced so the floor stays dry.

The control cannot read the water level — the pressure sensor is not answering (E31) or will not calibrate (E32). Without it the washer cannot judge a fill or a drain.

1. Unplug the washer for one full minute and run an empty Rinse & Spin. A sensor code that clears and stays gone was a power blip.

A pressure code that returns is the sensor or the small hose that feeds it, up behind the top panel — a technician's part. Not a home repair.

The control saw the water level fall while nothing was draining — water is leaving the tub somewhere, or the air hose to the pressure sensor has a leak so the level reads wrong.

1. Turn both taps off and pull the washer out. Look at the drain hose where it joins the back of the machine, then at each fill hose end, for a drip.
2. The pump filter cap at the bottom front is screwed in straight since the last cleaning.
3. Look under the front of the washer with a flashlight for a wet patch — a leak inside the cabinet lands on the floor there.

Tighten or reseat whatever was loose, dry the floor and run a Rinse & Spin. If the floor stays dry and E13 comes back, the sensor hose inside has come off or split — a technician's part. A wet floor with every hose tight is a leak inside the cabinet, the same call.

The control drove the motor and its speed sensor sent nothing back (E59 is the same silence timed at three seconds). A drum packed too tight to turn prints the same code as a motor fault.

1. Take half the load out and try again — a stalled drum under an overpacked load is the usual cause.
2. A new washer: all four shipping bolts are out of the back panel.
3. Unplug for one minute and run an empty Spin. If the drum turns freely by hand but never under power, it is the motor or its board.

E52 with a normal load after a reset is the motor's speed sensor, the motor or the drive board — a technician's part. E51 and E55 on the same display are the motor's drive circuit and its relay, the same family and the same call.

The motor board measured more current than the motor should draw. A drum that cannot turn, or a motor winding that has failed.

1. Open the door and turn the drum by hand — something caught between the drum and the tub (a bra wire, a coin on edge) stops it dead.
2. Take the load out and unplug the washer for five full minutes.
3. Run an empty Spin. A drum that is free by hand and still trips the code is the motor or the board.

E57 or E58 on an empty, free drum after a five-minute unplug is the inverter board or the motor — a technician's part.

The main control and the motor board stopped talking, or disagree about what the motor is doing. E5E and E5F are the same lost link read from the motor board's side.

1. Unplug the washer for five full minutes, plug it in and run an empty Spin.

A communication code that returns is the motor control board, the main board or the harness between them — a technician's part.

The heating element in the tub, or its relay on the control board, did not do what the control asked. Cold cycles still run.

1. Unplug the washer for one minute and run a Rinse & Spin on cold.
2. If the code shows only on warm, hot or Sanitize cycles and a cold cycle runs clean, the heater or its relay is the fault.

A heater that does not heat is a part replaced inside the tub; a relay that will not close is the control board. Either is a technician's job — cold cycles run safely meanwhile.

A temperature sensor reads open or shorted, so the control cannot tell how warm the water is. E71 and E74 are the sensor in the tub; E75 and E76 are the sensors on the inlet side.

1. Unplug the washer for one minute and run a cold Rinse & Spin.

A temperature code that returns is the sensor or its wiring — a part inside the cabinet, a technician's job. Cold cycles may still run while you wait.

The inlet sensor measured water far hotter than the cycle asked for. The hoses are swapped, or the hot supply is scalding.

1. Follow each hose from the washer back to the wall — the hose on the inlet marked cold (blue) must come from the cold tap.
2. The water heater is not set above 120°F; a tank set to 140°F feeds water the sensor reads as a fault on a warm cycle.

Swap the hoses to the right inlets, or turn the water heater down, and the code clears on the next fill. With the hoses right and the water at 120°F, the inlet sensor is the part — a technician's.

The panel and the main control lost communication with each other. The display may light and take no key at all.

1. Unplug the washer for five full minutes, plug it in and try a cycle.

An E91 that comes back is the panel board, the main board or the harness between them — a technician's part. E93, E94 and E95 on the same display are the control's own configuration and memory checks, the same board and the same call.