Electrolux dishwasher error codes: water that would not come in, would not go out, or went where it should not.

The dishwasher opened its valve and did not see enough water come in. The supply is off, slow or kinked.

1. The shutoff under the sink that feeds the dishwasher is open all the way — a valve a quarter turn open fills so slowly the control gives up.
2. The supply line under the sink is not kinked or pinched where it bends up through the cabinet floor.
3. The hot tap at the sink runs with normal pressure; a house filter that has clogged, or a well pump between cycles, starves the fill.
4. A newly installed dishwasher: the line was flushed before it was hooked up — grit from the install plugs the valve screen.

Open the shutoff, straighten the line, press Cancel and start a cycle. With the supply good, the inlet valve on the dishwasher (behind the kick plate, where the line attaches) is not opening — a part, and on a machine under warranty a warranty call. Water work is a licensed plumber's.

The pump ran and the tub did not empty in the time allowed. iF0 is the same drain trouble on the newer displays. i40, below, points at the filter itself.

1. A disposer installed with the dishwasher: the knockout plug inside the disposer's dishwasher inlet is out — the single most common cause on a new install.
2. The drain hose is not pinched where it passes through the cabinet, and it loops up high (at least 32 inches off the floor) before it drops to the drain or the disposer.
3. The filter and the glass trap in the bottom of the tub are out and rinsed, and the sump under them is clear of food.
4. The sink drain itself runs free.

Clear the drain path, press Cancel twice and run a cycle. A clear hose and a clean sump with the pump humming and moving nothing is the drain pump — a technician's part.

Food has built up in the sump and the water cannot get to the pump.

1. Turn the lower spray arm aside, lift out the cylinder filter and the flat screen under it, and rinse both under the tap with a soft brush.
2. Reach into the sump with a flashlight and a rag; pull out the glass chip, the label, the seed.

Clean the filters and the sump, seat them back the way they came out, and run a cycle. Rinse the filter weekly in a house that scrapes plates rather than rinses them.

The float in the pan under the tub lifted — water is collecting under the dishwasher. The control shuts the valve and runs the drain pump to protect the floor.

1. Turn the shutoff under the sink off first.
2. Pull the kick plate off the bottom front and look in with a flashlight: a drip at the inlet valve, a wet drain hose, or water running down from the door — the tub overfilled, or the door seal leaks.
3. The dishwasher is level front to back and side to side; a dishwasher leaning forward pours out the door.

Dry the pan with a towel (tip the float back down by hand), fix what dripped, and run a cycle with the shutoff open while you watch the pan. A pan that fills again with every connection dry is a leak inside — a tub seal, a pump seal, the heater gasket — a technician's job.

Not a fault. The door is not closed and latched, so the cycle will not start.

1. Push the door shut until the latch clicks; a rack pushed out past its stop, or a tall pot in the top rack, keeps it from latching.
2. The latch strike at the top of the tub is clean and nothing is bent.

The code goes out when the door latches. A door that latches and still prints CL has a latch switch that is not reporting — a part.

Not a fault. The panel is locked, so a key press does nothing and the display reads Loc or lights the padlock.

1. Press and hold the Lock key (the panel prints it, often under the Delay or Options key) for 3 seconds until the lock light goes out.

The panel answers again.

Not a fault. The power went out mid-cycle; the dishwasher stopped where it was.

1. Press Cancel once to clear it, then start a new cycle.

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage is a loose connection at the junction box under the dishwasher — an electrician's look.