What does PF mean on a Amana dryer?

Not a fault. The power went out while the dryer was running; the cycle stopped where it was. Nothing to fix. PF with no outage is a plug loose in the outlet or a breaker that is failing — an electrician's look.

What does F3E1 mean on a Amana dryer?

The sensor that reads the air leaving the drum is open or shorted, so the control cannot run heat safely. F3E1 that returns with a clear vent is the exhaust thermistor or its wiring — a part on the blower housing, a technician's job.

What does F1E1 mean on a Amana dryer?

The control board found a fault in itself. F1E1 that returns is the main control board — a part inside the console, a technician's job.

What does F2E1 mean on a Amana dryer?

The panel sees a key held down longer than a key is ever pressed. A key that stays stuck after a cleaning is the user interface — a part, a technician's job.

What does F6E2 mean on a Amana dryer?

The panel and the main control lost communication with each other. A communication code that comes back is a board or the harness between them — a service call.

Error codes · Amana · Dryers

Amana dryer error codes: most of them are the vent, or one leg of the power.

Most Amana dryers have a dial and no display, so there is no code to read — the dryer runs cold, runs long, or stops, and the dryer symptom page is the road. A display model prints a few: L2 for one dead leg of the 240V, AF for a vent that cannot breathe, PF after an outage, and the thermistor and board codes that are a technician's. Find the code below and work the checks in order.

Covers: 2015-and-newer electric (NED4655, NED4600, NED5800) and gas (NGD4655, NGD4600, NGD5800) dryers.

Jump to the codes Text (573) 353-8511

Jump to a code · 7 on this page

The code as the display prints it; an older spelling sits under it on the card.

L2Low voltage — one leg dead

AFRestricted airflow

PFPower failure during the cycle

F3E1Exhaust thermistor

F1E1Main control fault

F2E1Button stuck

F6E2Boards not talking

Amana · First

Before you clear it

Amana prints F-and-E codes on a display, or blinks a cycle light on a washer with none.

A dial model prints nothing. It tumbles with no heat (one leg of the power on an electric, the igniter or the gas valve coils on a gas), or runs long with damp clothes (the vent). The fault history is in the service diagnostic on the tech sheet behind the console, written for a technician.

A display model prints a two-letter state (AF, L2, PF) and an F-and-E fault (F3E1).

The reset: unplug the dryer (or switch both breakers of its 240V circuit off) for one full minute, plug it in and start a Timed Dry on high. A code that comes straight back is real.

A gas dryer that tumbles with no heat and no code is the igniter, the flame sensor or the gas valve coils — a technician's parts. A gas smell at the dryer: stop, open a window, do not light anything, and call the gas utility from outside.

The model and serial plate is inside the door opening, on the frame or the lip under the door. Every warranty call starts with those two numbers.

Section 1 of 2

Airflow and power

L2#1

Check, then call

Code

Low voltage — one leg dead

What it means

An electric dryer is getting 120V instead of 240V. The drum turns and there is no heat — one of the two breakers tripped, or one leg of the outlet is dead.

Check first

The dryer's breaker in the panel is a double (two handles tied together) and both are fully on. Switch it all the way off and back on; a tripped half does not always look tripped.
The dryer is plugged straight into its own 240V outlet, never an extension cord or an adapter.
A newly installed cord: the terminal block screws are tight and the strap is right for a 3-prong or a 4-prong cord — a loose terminal on a new cord is the usual L2 on a new dryer.

The fix

Reset the breaker and the code clears. A breaker that trips again, a dead leg at the outlet, or a cord to re-terminate is a licensed electrician's job — 240V work is never a home repair. A dryer on a sound outlet that still prints L2 has a fault on its own board — a service call.

Stop & call

L2 on a dryer plugged into a sound 240V outlet is a service call on the control. One dead leg at the outlet is an electrician's; leave the dryer unplugged until it is checked.

AF#2

Also printed as Check Vent

Fix at home

Code

Restricted airflow

What it means

The dryer measured too little air moving through it; the cycle runs long or ends early with damp clothes. A dial model shows the same thing with no code — the clothes.

Check first

The lint screen is out, clean, and its slot is clear — reach into the slot with a vacuum crevice tool; lint builds under the screen.
The vent hose behind the dryer is not crushed against the wall or kinked, and it is metal, not white vinyl. Pull the dryer out a foot and look.
The flap on the outside hood opens when the dryer runs — go outside and feel for air. No air, or a trickle, is a clogged duct.
Disconnect the vent hose from the back and run a Timed Dry — if the dryer heats well and the code stays gone, the duct is the whole story.

The fix

Clean the duct end to end (a vent brush kit, or a vent cleaning service), replace crushed or vinyl hose with rigid or semi-rigid metal, and shorten the run where it can be. A dryer that prints AF with the hose off the back is its own blower or a sensor — a service call.

PF#3

Fix at home

Code

Power failure during the cycle

What it means

Not a fault. The power went out while the dryer was running; the cycle stopped where it was.

Check first

Press Start to pick the cycle back up, or start a Timed Dry to finish the load.

The fix

Nothing to fix. PF with no outage is a plug loose in the outlet or a breaker that is failing — an electrician's look.

Section 2 of 2

Sensors and the boards

Every code here is a part inside the dryer. The reset is the one check; the rest is a technician's.

F3E1#4

Also printed as F3 E1

Service call

Code

Exhaust thermistor

What it means

The sensor that reads the air leaving the drum is open or shorted, so the control cannot run heat safely.

Check first

Reset the dryer (unplug one minute) and start a Timed Dry on high.
The vent is clear (the AF checks above) — a restricted vent overheats the exhaust and the control may print this code first.

The fix

F3E1 that returns with a clear vent is the exhaust thermistor or its wiring — a part on the blower housing, a technician's job.

Stop & call

F3E1 after a reset is a service call; the dryer will not heat until the sensor is replaced. On a machine under warranty, file it as a warranty call.

F1E1#5

Also printed as F1 E1

Service call

Code

Main control fault

What it means

The control board found a fault in itself.

Check first

Unplug the dryer for five full minutes, plug it in and start a Timed Dry.

The fix

F1E1 that returns is the main control board — a part inside the console, a technician's job.

Stop & call

F1E1 after a five-minute unplug is a service call. On a machine under warranty, file it as a warranty call.

F2E1#6

Also printed as F2 E1

Fix at home

Code

Button stuck

What it means

The panel sees a key held down longer than a key is ever pressed.

Check first

Press each button once; feel for one that does not spring back.
Wipe the panel dry.
Unplug for one minute.

The fix

A key that stays stuck after a cleaning is the user interface — a part, a technician's job.

F6E2#7

Also printed as F6 E2

Service call

Code

Boards not talking

What it means

The panel and the main control lost communication with each other.

Check first

Unplug the dryer for five full minutes, plug it in and try a cycle.

The fix

A communication code that comes back is a board or the harness between them — a service call.

Stop & call

F6E2 after a five-minute unplug is a service call; both boards are inside the console. On a machine under warranty, file it as a warranty call.

Warranty · When to file

When it's a warranty call

Every unit leaves with the manufacturer's full factory warranty. The codes below name a part inside the machine — once the checks have ruled out the install, the power and the hoses, call Amana's line with the model and serial, and text us if you want a hand with the claim.

F3E1Exhaust thermistor

F1E1Main control fault

F6E2Boards not talking

Warranty help for Amana

All units are surplus inventory (open box, cancelled order, customer return, overstock, or minor scratch & dent). Every unit includes the manufacturer's full factory warranty. Please inspect thoroughly in person before purchasing — cosmetic imperfections or missing accessories are possible.

Still stuck?

Text us the model number and what it's doing — we'll point you at the next step.

A fix, a part, or a warranty call — the plate's model and serial plus one line about the symptom is all it takes to tell which.

File a warranty inquiry Text (573) 353-8511 Browse Inventory Or reach us another way

These pages are educational. Every appliance is a little different — follow the manufacturer's manual and local code, and leave gas, water heater and 240V work to a licensed installer.

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